Contouring: Specific to Shape

This is a follow-up to my post on Contour Makeup. There I covered the basic application, and here I will cover the specifics to a few of the unique facial shapes.

First on the chopping block... *Drumroll*...

Oval

The oval is the most balanced of face shapes. The distance from the hairline to the brow should be equal to the distance of the brow to the tip of the nose, and the tip of the nose to the chin. The forehead will be slightly wider than the jawline, with cheekbones that taper softly to the chin. The standard contouring application will apply to this face. Dust your darker shade under the apples of the cheeks, curving upward and outward toward the ears. Softly highlight the cheekbone above.

Round

A round face will appear to be equal in length and width. This will give the appearance of a small forehead and wider cheeks with a round jaw. To balance this look you'll want to create a more angular appearance to both the forehead and jaw. This can be achieved by shading slong the edge of the forehead, beginning at the temples, and bringing the forehead up into an arc. Then shade the jaw line from the ear lobe, bringing the chin to a point. Almost as though you were shading off the round "corners" of the jaw. Highlight the apples of the cheeks, sweeping upward toward the temples, and also down the center of the nose to create a more angular face.

Square

The square face features a prominent jaw line and an angual appearance. The width of the cheeks are forehead will be similar as well as the width of the forehead and jaw line. Hence "Square." To play-down this angled look you must soften the jaw and the forehead. To accomplish this you will shade in the corners of the forehead as well as the jaw, similarly (interestly enough) to what we have done with the round shape. Highlight the apples of the cheeks and work your way up towards the temples.

Heart

A heart shaped face is widest at the forehead, tapering down to the chin, which will often be pointed. This face shape has little to no jaw line to balance it. To make this face more oval shaped, which is considered the ideal, one must give the illusion of a narrower forehead and a wider jaw. To achieve this you will shade the corners of the forehead (hairline) in a rounded manor. Almost like a C, then a backwards C. You will need to highlight both sides of the jaw line with either a lighter foundation or a highlighting colour. Then apply your highlighter just under the apples of the cheeks, sweeping up towards the little of the ear.

Diamond

Another self-explanatory face shape. The face will be widest at the cheeks, with a narrow tapered forehead and a tapered. To create balance to this shape the forehead and jawline need to appear wider. This can be done by applying highlighter on an angle on each side of the forehead, as well as on an angle at each side at mid to bottom jaw. Apply highlighter to the apples of the cheeks in a C shape, blending upward and outward.

Tips aside, I don't believe anyone should feel that they have to change their face shape. If you wanna play it up go ahead. These are the conventional techniques to achieving that classic oval shape. Perhaps it's not everyone's ideal. Fashion and fun makeup is about breaking the mould.

That said- I am an oval but have been known to contour myself into a heart.<3

-H. Cat